If the camshaft has not been hit with flying parts, and if the lifters and bores they go in look clean as a whistle, and fit with the same feel in the clean new block I would use them in the same order from front to back to assure they ride on the same cam lobe. Doing good engine work really requires a set of micrometers and telescopic gauges. Without them, even new parts cannot be checked for fit. An engine that has had a rod out the side has had enough stress on the other rods to cause grief. If the crank was blue where the rod failed, the other rods would be very suspect. I imagine that the owner wants a reliable tractor when completed. New sleeves and pistons, a valve job, and a warranty. If the piston th the hole that failed hit the head, the head will need to be magnifluxed to assure there are no cracks. It can be a painful experience when the only local shop won't be reasonable. I looked up where your new place is, and really envy your views and conditions there. It does have the distance to technical resources issue. A good used long block (with all the parts in it might be a best option other than its cost and cost of shipping. Best of luck, Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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