This just adds some info to what was already mentioned, plus one other item important for 1970s. Your truck originally had a heat-riser valve and I suspect it was eliminated when those headers were put on? It used to force heat under the carb to warm in and that made it drive better in cold weather. Also, for emissions reasons, if the intake manifold had been off - often the new intake-manifold gaskets have little tin plates blocking heat to the underneath of the carb. If that was my truck - even with no heat-riser - if it was an all-year driver I would want those tin-plate removed - assuming you have an OEM intake manifold.
Also - if that carb had been apart? As the last poster mentioned, there is a small steel check ball in there. If it got lost - the accel pump cannot work and it will bog whenever you stomp on the gas. Same if the pump umbrella seal is hard.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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