The solenoid valve behind the carb, does it stop vacuum to the vacuum advance under certain conditions, as in only when in high gear? Don't know what they were thinking, but if so that is a performance/mileage killer.
Bypass it, take the vacuum straight off the carb, either ported or manifold, which ever runs best. If the distributor hasn't been gone through lately, take it out, disassemble it, inspect the weights, the pivots, the springs... All that stuff requires maintenance to stay right. You can buy weight kits, springs, bushings, adjustable vacuum advance, play around with it, it will make a lot of diference when it's right.
Q jet is the finest carb Detroit ever made! Fully tuneable, easy to understand. If it hasn't been adjusted for the headers, it's too lean. some thinner metering rods, bigger jets, different rod spring, lots of things can be changed to fine tune it.
Whatever you do, DON'T let anyone talk you into replacing it with a Holly! Gas leaking garbage out of the box!!!
If you are going to make this a reliable truck, something that is going to start after sitting a few months, look into one of the throttle body injection systems. They are great, easily tuned, better mileage, no choke problems or cold natured start up, much more compatible with ethanol gas than any carb.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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