I assume you are going to put the beams at the top of the poles, lag screwed to a flat sawn into the side of the poles, (this keeps them upright) to go down both sides of the barn parallel to the ridge. The trusses would be sitting on these, and spanning the width of the roof. I assume there are no building coads involved, or inspections! If so they drive the bus. Considerations are as follows: The beams are not AISI standard because the trailer companies can do what they like. Thus there is little or no load/span data available. The beams will work for the idea I indicate with some restrictions. The beams have little horizontal stiffness, they are a noodle when laid flat, or pushed sideways when in their normal position. This noodlie weakness must be stiffened, to resist wind forces pushing sideways between poles. The spacing of the trusses should be no more than 24"O.C. to create a uniform load (as opposed to a point loading). The snow load in your county is factored into the concept. It is expressed in pounds per square foot, applied to the footprint of the roof, not the angled total surface. The beams are probably best tested for strength to measure their deflection with posts spaced at 8 feet, and 10 feet. with a maximin deflection from straight of about 1/4" at the center under load. With one beam standing upright on concrete blocks spaced at 8 foot intervalc, Weight one of the middle spans to simulate a real load until it deflects as above. The effect of the beam across each test support adds strength (cantelever) to all except the ends. If you point load your test segment, it will be more conservitave than if you distribute the test load. This number of pounds is close to the maximum load on that section of roof from the ridge to the end of the overhang. The building will have little shear strength from the poles, and there needs to be wind bracing to prevent it from being blown over. I have no idea how you will use this information, but I give it with the assumption you will ask others on site and with expertise, and I assume no risk in your doing anything related to this information. Others will tell you I am a stuffed turkey. I believe they are pretty much on target. This is only worth what you paid. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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