At the amp meter: The wire (10 gauge) from the battery side of the starter switch should be alone on one terminal of the amp meter. The other terminal connects to the alternator (10 gauge) output stud, and all other accessories, and power to the BAT terminal on the ignition switch.
From the ignition switch: From the IGN terminal will power the coil, any other accessories, and the #1 spade terminal on the alternator. BUT between the ignition switch and the #1 spade terminal there must be a resistor, usually an instrument lamp, or a diode to prevent feed back to the coil when the ignition is turned off.
Back of the alternator: Run a jumper wire from the BAT stud to the #2 spade terminal. If you don't have the plastic harness plug for the alternator, I suggest getting one. The auto supply will have it, very inexpensive, it keeps the wires from getting reversed and more important, shorting against the housing.
Following this diagram, it should work. To remove any doubt, take the alternator to the auto supply and have it tested first. That will remove any doubt that it is working properly and not draining the battery.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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