Check the diameter of the rear drums.If they are worn out you only use a small part of the shoe,I fought one of the local schools over the problem with their E350 bus. That thing would not stop for anything till I put new drums on it, it stopped, and then I sent them the bill(before they said it was too much money) To check a booster,shut the motor off pump the brake pedal 3 or 4 times,hold the pedal down and start the truck. If the pedal goes down, the booster is working. This is the book way to test a vacuum booster. Make sure the wheel cylinders are not frozen from rust,if the parking brake is hanging up in the drum you will never be able to adjust the brakes correctly either. With the drum off you will see a steel bar running between the shoes below the wheel cyl and above the axle. That is the mechanical bar that makes the parking brake work,it has a spring on one end. That bar has to be able to move back and forth when you try to move it,if it doesn't you will never get the brakes to work right.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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