Since you have a battery/points/coil ignition, that raises some new possibilities.
Since you have a more automotive type of ignition, there are also other automotive type features that would have come along with that. Electric starting, a charging system, and a battery to run it all. There would also be accessories that would run off the electrical system like headlights, PTO, and maybe even a horn or cigarette lighter.
with a more complex electrical system, your ignition switch should have taps for ignition system, accessories, and starting. If your ignition and accessory circuits are on the same tap on your switch, you need a means to isolate the charging circuit from the ignition circuit or the charging system will feed back to the ignition system and cause it to remain energized after you turn the switch off.
To isolate, you need either to separate the ignition system from the rest of the electrical system by either putting it on a different tap on the ignition switch or installing an isolation diode to prevent the charging system from back feeding the ignition.
To test this, with the engine running, check for voltage at the battery side of the coil. Then turn off the switch. If the voltage does not drop, it tells you that something is back feeding the ignition. That is where the problem will be found.
One thing I have found is that there are any number of different ignition switch configurations. The switches look the same but are wired differently internally.
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