They are not related at all to the 1030 except that they have the same 451 cubic inch displacement. The engine has a totally different head design so the problems with the 30 series don't apply. With the 30 series and especially the 1030 shutting them down hot was the cause of cracked heads. If you let them cool for a few minutes before shutdown they didn't crack much. That was fixed with the direct injection and cross flow heads on the 70 series. The transmission is totally different as well as the 1170/75 have outboard plannetaries. The 7/8/9/1070 with the 8 speed transmission have more in common with the older 30 series. As far as reliability I can't think of anything that would be more reliable than an 1170 or 1175. Great high torque engines, good brakes and steering, and bulletproof transmission and rear end. They frequently run 150+ hp factory and can run more than that without over doing it. They are a bit slow on the road as I think road gear is only about 16 mph. They are getting old tho so check for water in the oil as the orings can go bad at the bottom of the sleeves.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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