Well i would probably leave the solenoid (starter relay really) in place. As noted, finding a servicable high amp push button is difficult, and expensive if an industrial one (not stock looking) is put in place. The relay could be better placed closer to the the starter minimizing length from the battery to the starter, as well as losses in the cables. The cables should be 00gauge. (double aught) to function as needed to make an M spin. The next item is the generator. The light switch has the wrong decal on it. It should have L,H,D,B these stand for Low charge, High charge, Dim headlights, Bright Headlights. The switch is internally complex. It has two sections on one shaft. Section #1 is generator control. It has the function of grounding the F terminal of the generator either through a resistor, or directly to ground. The field on this A circuit charging system has the field getting its source inside the generator (a third brush) and grounding the field to make charging magnetism. So the light switch has 4 positions affecting the generator, and they are as follows. In L (turned Counterclockwise) the field ground goes through a wire wound resistor on the light switch, then to a switch contact, from there to the switch metal body to ground on the oval box, which grounds on the steering wheel support, which is grounded to the tractor platform. (all these pathways must be clean and shiny or it will not charge). In H position (one click CW) the Field is directly connected to the switch body, and to the same ground path. This allows the generator to put out its modest 12 amps into the battery to help keep it charged is the tractor is be stopped and started often, or in winter when used for shorter times. The amount of charge in amps is adjusted by moving the third brush closer to the fixed brush in the generator end plate. The D position, and B position also ground the gen the same as the H position, but that is to make enough electricity to run the lights, and charge the battery some. The light control section of the switch is not grounded at all. It is supplied electricity from the 15 amp fuse (should be there) and sends electricity through a different wire wound resistor on the back of the switch in D position, and directly to the lights in the H position. So do not hook electricity to the Field circuit. Bob M on this site has wiring diagrams for these components, use google to find it. Do not use one color of wire, and do use 12 gauge. 4 or 5 colors will suffice. Do solder terminals on the wires, then slide shrink tubing up on the terminal end to make them nice. Wire from the Generator A terminal to the ARM terminal on the cutout relay and the wire grom the cutout to the amp gauge and from the gauge to the start relat battery side, all should be red, and 10 gauge. I hope ths helps! Jim
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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