Update: Yesterday I finally managed to get the steering wheel off using the Ultradog method. Chalk up one for the Good Guys!
I originally tried making a sleeve out of a 2 PVC coupling, because these were cheap in the hardware store, and an 8-long x2 ID steel pipe nipple was $13 with tax (!) Readers be advised that this didn't work. The PVC is simply too plastic, and it bent, and finally broke. I next found some 2 steel pipe on our property, and fashioned a sleeve the way Ultradog intended. An angle grinder w cutting blade is the way to go in making that.
I had to crank the heck out of the 3-jaw gear puller, using a cheater bar on my ratchet. But, the steering wheel finally broke loose (suddenly, with a loud BANG!). The plastic bottom of the steering wheel is now severely deformed from the massive pressure applied. It could, however, be trimmed, and put back on. Or, as I'm doing, an aftermarket wheel can be found for a 6610S on ebay cheapest, or in other places, with prices ranging from $34-60.
Next up is trying to remove what's left of the old, rusty muffler, to be able to remove the tin over the engine, to be able to get at the instrument-panel tin, to remove that & get at the chewed-up wiring. It's been cold, so I'll have to wait till it warms a bit.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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