Find the timing mark as described below. Not sure what is stamped on the flywheel, but find some type mark, try to read the numbers or whatever is there. You want to find something that will tell when the crank is at or slightly before TDC. Try to mark the mark with white chalk or something easy to find again.
Then with the #1 spark plug removed, hand turn the engine while holding your finger over the plug hole. When you feel air pressure, keep turning until you see the mark line up.
It is now close enough to put the distributor in or check to see if it is right. The rotor should be pointing at the #1 cap terminal. To get it exact, with the distributor loose, rotate the housing the same direction the rotor turns until you are past the cap terminal, then slowly rotate the housing the opposite direction until the points just open. You can put a test light on the - coil terminal to ground. When the light comes on, the points have opened. Snug the distributor down, it is close enough to start. From there it can be timed with a light or by ear. The engine is not critical on timing. If it starts and runs well without kicking back against the starter, clattering under load, has good power, it is good.
Now if it still won't start...
Double check the firing order, just to say you did.
Check for a blue hot spark at least 1/4 inch to ground at the plug end of each wire.
There is a drain plug in the carb bowl. Have a clean glass ready, pull the plug and catch the flow. It should drain the bowl, then while cranking the engine it should have a substantial flow. If the bowl was empty, or there is no flow from the fuel pump, there is a fuel delivery problem.
Look at the fuel the was caught. Check for water, rust, debris. If contaminated the tank and carb may need to be cleaned.
If all looks good, replace the plug, crank the engine to refill the carb bowl. With the coil wire grounded to prevent starting or backfire, disconnect the air cleaner hose, hold your hand tightly over the air horn of the carb, crank the engine through. You should get strong vacuum and your hand wet with gas. If no vacuum, there are valve problems. If vacuum and no gas, there is a fuel problem.
If the engine has not been run for a while, a spoon of oil in each cylinder will help raise the compression.
Also the fuel pump and carb may be gummed with dried ethanol fuel residue from sitting unused.
And check the air intake and exhaust for mud dobber nests, bird nests and rodent packings.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: Fordson Major - by Anthony West. George bought his Fordson Major from a an implement sale about 18 years ago for £200.00 (UK). There is no known history regarding its origins or what service it had done, but the following work was undertaken alone to bring it up to show standard. From the engine number, it was found that this Major was produced late 1946. It was almost complete but had various parts that would definitely need replacing.
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