I agree with rustred up to a point. I think there may be some possibility of chaffing at the point I see them heading down past the pivot of the back end of the main loader frame. I will place a link to a great place in Lincoln NE to get hydraulic parts and many other things at economical prices, maybe the clamps shown are a bit fancy. Zip ties and chunks of old heater hose will also work. Just so the hose are not in an area that has a bit of force holding the hoses against a moving part. On another note it would be nice to see a side photo of what you have going on up front. It looks like you are possibly mounting a cylinder to curl the bucket instead of the trip mechanism. If what I am seeing is configured as I think I see it I believe you are headed for immediate failure of the back cylinder mount. ..after looking at the side view I found later what I thought was just a square tube is a much heavier flat bar.. You are going to have to run another angle iron or square tube from near the top of that back cylinder mount to your main pipe frame. I am guessing a 4 to 6 foot long piece. As far as that cylinder mount is from its mount point with the U bolts it creates a ..lever.. to increase the force on the u bolts. If I remember correctly you are a young lad, I am not sure if you have ever been in a position to twist off a half inch bolt ..which has a 3/4 inch hex head.. with a 2 or 3 foot long breaker bar it takes a little doing but you only weigh 200 lbs at the most. It is likely that cylinder can quite likely exert nearly 5 tons or 10,000 lbs. of force even on the old lower pressure Deere system. Also you need to go back to what you hopefully learned in geometry, a triangular is the strongest shape. Next time you are in Walmart or Home Depot look up at the ceiling, those things holding up the roof are called bar joists, they at full of triangles. Adding a support as I am suggesting will create a triangle to ..help.. support your cylinder mount. Well after going back and checking you past posts you are not the same poster I had in mind, you may not be a young buck. Otherwise, I think every thing else I said still applies unless there is something I cannot see from the back view. Now in total hind site I went to your previous post that shows the bucket cylinder mounts, see 2nd link. I am surprised they work as well as they do considering how they are mounted with those U bolts. I take it you do not have a welder. I am certain over time those U bolts will come loose. Especially if you ever attempt to dig earth with the bucket. You could add supports that go clear back to the frame pivot hinges pins. I would think 1 1/4 lip angle iron would be strong enough if it was 3/16 inch thick 1/4 would probably be better. You would have to take them some place an get some suitable plate bars welded on the ends with holes drilled for the rear hinge pin to fit through. Then in the front you could drill and bolt them near the cylinder mount at the front. Just trying to come up with a way that does not require a welder on site.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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