On a dry clutch system, the clutch clamps by mechanical spring force. If there is any free play in the clutch pedal AT ALL, the clutch is clamping down with all the force it can possibly make. The only way for a clutch adjustment to make any difference is if the pedal is so far out of adjustment that its holding the clutch partially disengaged. That's zero free play plus several turns of the adjustment past that.
A clutch that "slips" with a properly adjusted pedal is shot. There is no "adjusting the problem away."
Sounds like it's not likely that you're going to get any useful dealer support but that does not mean you should quit trying if the tractor is under warranty. Make their lives hell.
Now is the shuttle shifter a switch on the steering column, or a mechanical lever that mechanically shifts something on the transmission? If it's electrical it's entirely possible that the shuttle shifter is the problem because it would use simple gate logic to determine neutral, allowing you to start.
HOWEVER, that would be an entirely SEPARATE problem from before. Shuttle is all or nothing. Your original problem, you had low but no medium or high.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Black Tire Paint - by Staff. I have been fortunate in that two of my tractors have had rear tires that were in great shape when I bought the tractor. My model "H" even had the old style fronts with plenty of tread. My "L" fronts were mismatched Sears Guardsman snow tires, which I promptly tossed. Well, although these tires were in good shape as far as tread was concerned, they looked real sad. All were flat, but new tubes fixed that. In addition to years and years of scuffing and fading, they had paint splattered on
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