On a dry clutch system, the clutch clamps by mechanical spring force. If there is any free play in the clutch pedal AT ALL, the clutch is clamping down with all the force it can possibly make. The only way for a clutch adjustment to make any difference is if the pedal is so far out of adjustment that its holding the clutch partially disengaged. That's zero free play plus several turns of the adjustment past that.
A clutch that "slips" with a properly adjusted pedal is shot. There is no "adjusting the problem away."
Sounds like it's not likely that you're going to get any useful dealer support but that does not mean you should quit trying if the tractor is under warranty. Make their lives hell.
Now is the shuttle shifter a switch on the steering column, or a mechanical lever that mechanically shifts something on the transmission? If it's electrical it's entirely possible that the shuttle shifter is the problem because it would use simple gate logic to determine neutral, allowing you to start.
HOWEVER, that would be an entirely SEPARATE problem from before. Shuttle is all or nothing. Your original problem, you had low but no medium or high.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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