If you went back with the old float, there will be a 'water line' imprint where the gas has stained the metal. Get that parallel with the top when inverted and it will be real close.
If it's a new float then go by the specs, usually a measurement between the top of the float and the bottom of the cover gasket when inverted.
The float drop should be sufficient to let the needle valve open but not pull out so far that it can come out or cock, it's not a real critical adjustment.
Another test is to turn the top upside down, let the float rest on the needle, suck on the inlet fitting, put your tongue over the hole. It should hold vacuum.
Realize the incoming fuel must be clean! The slightest piece of trash will foul the needle valve. I like to do a final flush of the line before connecting, You can even let some gas flow as you make the connection if the area is dirty.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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