Posted by Dave G9N on December 04, 2023 at 10:56:11 from (24.220.196.59):
In Reply to: Braze it or weld it? posted by stevieb49829 on December 01, 2023 at 22:19:36:
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to seeI have been looking at the possibility of soldering some unstressed cracks in the back of a lift cover on a 2N. You can apparently solder cast iron with a silver tin solder like Stay-Brite silver bearing solder. (~3.6% Ag, ~94% Sn) The cleaning and flux are more tricky with cast iron. I have some reservations about the lift cover, which doesn't generally get very hot and a lot more reservations about a valve cover, which runs hotter. Solder doesn't like much heat.
The nickel containing weld alloy for cast iron is Muggy. The logic behind this is muzzy.
Muggy weld contains a lot of nickel. If you will pardon my muzzy logic, 310 stainless steel contains a lot of nickel (20% Ni, 25% Cr) and you can get some .8mm x 50m wire on fleabay from the country on the other side of the planet. I mention this because I once had a welder rescue a 303 stainless part that had to be welded by using 310 as filler. 303 contains sulfur, which makes it hard to weld. It was an EB weld, not TIG. As the beam went around, the 303 boiled and as it cooled, the crack formed at about the same speed as the weld. He laid a piece of 310 wire over the joint and tried again. The wire disappeared into the joint and the welds didn't crack. Could work with TIG, but there is only one way to find out. If it does, you have something interesting to tell us about that might help others.
Soldering cast iron is not for hot or highly loaded parts. So far, I have found that it may not work on all cast irons. The oil and rust must be completely removed. The flux has to be very active, such as ammonium chloride/zinc chloride, Citric acid/glycerin/potassiuum sorbate/isopropyl alcohol. It can also help to coat the weld area with copper. The same solution can be used to check stainless steels for passivation. When the copper plates out, it isn't passive. I played with it on a steel hammer head (the only small chunk of steel in the lab). If you swab the solution on, it turns a bright copper color, but rubs off easily. If you rub it off and do it again, it is more durable, but still extremely thin. Point being that if I were to try soldering, I would expect better results by applying it, scrubbing it off and reapplying it.
From Machinery's Handbook. "Coppering solution for coating finished surfaces in order that lay-out lines may be more easily seen, is composed of the following ingredeients: To 4 ounces of distilled water (or rain water) add all the copper sulphate (blue vitriol) it will dissolve: then add 10 drops of sulphuric acid. The surface to be coppered should be polished and free from grease. Apply the solution with clean waste, and if a bright copper coating is not obtained, add a few more drops of the solution: then scour the surface with fine emery cloth and apply rapidly a small quantity of fresh solution."
*Ebay store was easy to find and used as an example. It isn't my problem and I'm too lazy to find a better source.
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