My question is did you clean up that area on the back of the engine before you took that photo? If not that area above the crank does not look like that seal was leaking two quarts a day. The spaces on either side of the main bearing cap have grooves that sealing packings are installed in. Those could leak, also the back of the oil pan. The expansion plug on the left is the back of the bore for the camshaft that is a potential oil leak area but that rarely happens. How is the engine otherwise as far as wear much crankcase blow-by out of the vent tube? Notice much oil burning, blue to gray smoke out of the exhaust? Just seeing if your engine may be using some of that oil instead of leaking all of it. FYI, collapsing the seal would be driving the outer ring that protrudes out past the back of the engine in towards the crankshaft. This would be done with a dull chisel, you would probably want some type of a protective shim between the seal and the outside of the crank OD. Doing this in 3 or 4 places around one half of the seal releases the press fit for removal. The screws, as mentioned, is a common method.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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