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Be brighter, look brighter, safer too
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Posted by buickanddeere on June 19, 2007 at 10:11:36 from (216.183.132.114):
Look brighter, be brighter……………Safer too. After looking for a little more wattage in the garden tractor headlights, antique tractor head/tail lights, stop lights for some vehicles, modern tractor flasher warning lamps etc. Here’s what out there. The price is about the same for most lamp upgrades vs. the dimmer origionals so why not? 12V 15mm bayonet single contact base. There is the 1156 an ordinary 25W lamp everybody takes home. There is also an 1195 lamp with 35W and a much improved 795 or 795X in 50W halogen. With the 50W in applications operating continuous with an all fully enclosed all plastic lamp assembly. You may have to drill a 3/8 vent hole on the bottom/side and top opposite side of the lamp enclosure to let some of the heat out via convection airflow. 12V 15mm bayonet dual contact base. There is the common 1157 with 27W/9W or step up to the 1188 with 50W/32W. 6V 15mm bayonet single contact base. Tired of the dim 1142 or 1143 at 13 or so watts? Even the so so 1129 with 17W? How about a 1521, 45W, 7564, 122450 or an A12036? They are all a hairy chested 45W. 6V 15mm bayonet dual contact base. The normal 1158 is 17W/5W. Brighten up with an 1188 with 34W/24W or an 1116 with 32W/21W. Of course cleaning & shinning up the lamp’s reflector & lense is always the 1st course of action. When handling any incandescent lamp, halogen or not. The lamps will last long if it is 100% clean and oil free. Your hands; no matter how “clean” are still oily. A wipe with a dry shop rag is little better. Alcohol is an excellent oil solvent and evaporates away quickly. Lights that just won’t “brighten up” often suffer a poor return path through the vehicle/machine’s chassis. Running a separate return from the lights back to the battery is sometimes the best solution.
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