Re: Pole barn for my tractors

Posted by Bill in NorthCentral PA on April 05, 2005 at 13:51:02 from (24.229.41.157):

In Reply to: Pole barn for my tractors posted by Ralph Edwards on April 05, 2005 at 07:48:35:

Ralph,
I have built a large number of pole barns for commerical, industrial, residential and ag uses. I always insisted on side overhangs, the customer could opt for ends if wanted (the rain gets farther awway from the building). I usually used 6x6 PT posts, up to 16' eave (20' posts), then did the lamination thing. Posts were typically 8' on center, with trusses 4' on center. I used polycarbonate skylights, 4:12 roof slope, minimum, and 29 gauge or 26 gauge steel roofing (galvalume, not galvanized). the trims were always ordered from the roofing manufacturer, and I had a special fascia trim made that I liked very well. It covered the soffit under the overhang (1/2", a 5-1/2" fascia (2x4 fascia mounted below a 1-1/2" purlin (with a slight space to allow for less than perfect lumber) and then it turned up under the roofing about 2". The soffit side was hemmed for a finished look, and to hide the exposed metal edge from the elements. I would predrill the nail holes through the soffit (I like vinyl), and nailed down into the first roof purlin. This allows for the metal fascia piece to expand and contract across the vertical face, without dimpling from nails driven directly into the face. When insulated the ceiling, ideally, a white liner panel was screwed to the bottom chords of the trusses (which need to be designed for this load) and then I had a building supply company blow in fiberglass insulation. In snow prone areas I would absolutely recommend an overhead door as the sliders get caught in the snow (the sliders need to hang down over the concrete lip to be stable when closed and latched). The 6x6 PT posts do get treatment into the center, but the heartwood ans sapwood appear different. I have no reservations using solid sawn lumber. I would have a trench drain in the middle, formed from concrete, with very good slope to the drain (in a 30' wide building, probably 2" - 3". I like to use a PVC pipe up through the bottom of the drain, and let it stick up 3" or so. This lets the solids settle out in the drain where they can be shoveled out easily, rather than in the pipe which is harder to clean. I'm out of time right now, but if you have any questions, post them and I'll check in the next day or two.

Good Luck,

Bill

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