Re: OT,Leech Beds???????

Posted by Eddie Bolch on July 06, 2005 at 07:48:05 from (208.180.125.216):

In Reply to: OT,Leech Beds??????? posted by SJ on July 04, 2005 at 06:30:29:

Her goes my $2 worth. 11 years as inspector 10 years as designer. Drain fields usually only last 15-18 years ast best because biological mat (slime) fills holes from pipe due to constant moisture and bacterial growth. Systems function depends a great deal on type of soil. If real sandy, effluent goes down through soil and percolates and gets cleaned and you never see it. If you have heavy clay, the only way to get rid of it is to evaporate it. This could require drain fields for 3 bedroom house (240 gpd) to go from 600 sq ft for sand to 3200 sq ft for heavy clay (Central Texas Area). It doesn't matter how you get the square footage, rock and gravel, infiltrators (incidentally, don't get a sq ft reduction in clay soil), graveless pipe, or whatever. Also drainfields must be mowed just like your yard, if grass gets tall, it insulates the soil and prevents sunlight and evaporation. A technique learned lately is to divide total drain field into two equal units with valve. Use 1/2 of drainfield until it gets saturated then swith valve and allow field to dry (reduce slime volume). Then switch fields again when other one fills. The reasoning behind keeping drain field lines in top 24-36 inches of soil is more sidewall penetration and evaporation potential from sun and wind and grass moisture uptake.

In this area the aerobic spray dispersal units go in cheaper than an inground system in clay soil. If you have sandy soil, cost flips.

Systems installed in early 70's had several design flaws that were corrected over years of trial and error, also personal water usage has increased thus drainfield size requirement has increased. Now, media between rock and sand cover is geotextile fabric this keeps the sand from filtering down and filling the holes between the rocks but allows the moisture to wick up to the surface (this is void space to hold effluent from the pipes until it can be disposed of through soil or sunlight). Esperience has shown that tank capacity should be divided to two tanks or compartments. Never metal, but concrete or fiberglass. Tanks should have turn downs to help separate soilds, grease, hair etc from liquid so the soilds don't flow down into drainfield and clog up holes which reduces the total amount of drainfield available which makes the effluent surface.

The drain field lines should be within 24 inches of the surface to make it easier for the effluent to evaporate or the vegetation roots to tap the moisture and draw it up into the plants.

Now, most enteties have some kind of inspection program to ensure that systems are put in properly. Talk to them, most will help in any way they can because it is easier to make changes with a pencil and paper to correct an error than it is to redig and relay pipe and gravel. The biggest mistake tha most first timers make is to try and install drainfield lines going down the slope. If they do, all the effluent goes to the bottom of the slope and surfaces. Think of the drain field lines as a soaker hose and run it in a level contour of the land so that the effluent soaks inthrough the total length of the line.

This is long but I hope it helps.

Follow Ups:

Post a Followup Name: E-Mail: Subject: Comments: Optional Link URL: Link Title: Optional Image URL: Email Notification: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]