After the bearing/hub is correctly repacked and reassembled, the tire/wheel is rotated by hand while torquing the nut to 12 ft lbs (depending upon the size of the bearings, of course).
If the keyway lands "between the grooves" ya continue to tighten to the next groove and until the key can be inserted. Under no circumstances should the preload be released and if assembled this way, they will darn near run forever.
That old fashioned "back it off" theory is a hand-me-down from the days of ball bearings and is an absolute "death warrant" for a tapered roller bearings. They will then in time and with use, wear/loosen and the entire load only rides on the "edge" of one roller at a time instead of being distributed evenly across the entire bearing surface(s).
I dunno. Trouble is, 'bout 80% of the guys with wrenches still back 'em off just as they did all those years ago.
I should have stood there and watched them do the job I guess. :>(
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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