Open the cap and (if it has one) remove the rotor and plastic divider plate to expose the points. Put a corner of a dollar bill between the points. and leave it there. Turn on the ignition sw. Use your test light as before, test the input side of coil, and now the output side. If it now lights, the points may need a little bit of 320 paper used between them to get the factory goo off of them. If there is no light, one of two things are happening. If the little stud that goes through the side of the distributor is grounded on the case it will not run. If the coil is open inside (bad) it will not run. To check which, take the wire off of the distributor terminal and than check to see power on the coil side that is opposite the resistor. If no power, the coil is open and bad. Good luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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