I spose that would depend somewhat on the tractor. I dunno about the 2 cylinders, but if it's a later, more conventional tractor then just look at the plate. If it's grooved up or the PTO drive hub splines (if it has one) are bad, then you would replace it. Generally speaking, I think if you let the clutch go to the point where it was completly useless and slipping to the point where there was no drive, then the PP should be changed anyway and the flywheel ground to remove the grooves from it.... that's if you want the clutch job to last. There are always rare instances where you would get away without that, but not many.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Black Tire Paint - by Staff. I have been fortunate in that two of my tractors have had rear tires that were in great shape when I bought the tractor. My model "H" even had the old style fronts with plenty of tread. My "L" fronts were mismatched Sears Guardsman snow tires, which I promptly tossed. Well, although these tires were in good shape as far as tread was concerned, they looked real sad. All were flat, but new tubes fixed that. In addition to years and years of scuffing and fading, they had paint splattered on
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