When I Mowe A Feild , I drop the Nh489 stub nose Guards in the grass , And DO NOT RAISE IT TIL I am done in the Feild , I HAVE started IN THE CENTER AND WORK OUT , wORKS WELL IN TRIANGLES ,, Most the time I will start clockwise about 1 round in, If there are low hanging trees, 2 rounds , About the 4th lap around I will reverse direction and get the outside of the Field ,, However if there are unknown hazards that will break a knife on the outside lap , I will wait and do that last, .. I do not turn sharp ,,SAVES U JOINTS , DOES'nt scuff the field either , , The stubb guards Allow Me to cut throgh Laying hay , Therefore when My feild is nearly cut , I will go back on each wide corner and cut them out to the end and come back to center of feild and do next leg of x in same manner , I rake the same way , Rarely using a turning brake , I bale starting in the corner of the x and follow 2 center , then back to each leg of X , When All Legs are baled , I start in the Middle and Bale finishing on the outside windrow last ,, THE HAY IS ALWAYS DRYER IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FIELD . And greener under the trees on the outside .. I use the X method for Sowing Wheat most of the time , Unless I am USing the Haybuster Drill Whish cannot be Turned in the ground . With that drill , I circle the Feild 5 or more Times , Raising at each 90 corner and doing a wrap around 360 turn , Then Plant the remaider of Field Back aND fORTH , rAISING AT EACH END .. works well for me < >jim
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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