When I Mowe A Feild , I drop the Nh489 stub nose Guards in the grass , And DO NOT RAISE IT TIL I am done in the Feild , I HAVE started IN THE CENTER AND WORK OUT , wORKS WELL IN TRIANGLES ,, Most the time I will start clockwise about 1 round in, If there are low hanging trees, 2 rounds , About the 4th lap around I will reverse direction and get the outside of the Field ,, However if there are unknown hazards that will break a knife on the outside lap , I will wait and do that last, .. I do not turn sharp ,,SAVES U JOINTS , DOES'nt scuff the field either , , The stubb guards Allow Me to cut throgh Laying hay , Therefore when My feild is nearly cut , I will go back on each wide corner and cut them out to the end and come back to center of feild and do next leg of x in same manner , I rake the same way , Rarely using a turning brake , I bale starting in the corner of the x and follow 2 center , then back to each leg of X , When All Legs are baled , I start in the Middle and Bale finishing on the outside windrow last ,, THE HAY IS ALWAYS DRYER IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FIELD . And greener under the trees on the outside .. I use the X method for Sowing Wheat most of the time , Unless I am USing the Haybuster Drill Whish cannot be Turned in the ground . With that drill , I circle the Feild 5 or more Times , Raising at each 90 corner and doing a wrap around 360 turn , Then Plant the remaider of Field Back aND fORTH , rAISING AT EACH END .. works well for me < >jim
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Today's Featured Article - The Ferguson System Principal An implement cutting through the soil at a certain depth say eight inches requires a certain force or draft to pull it. Obviously that draft will increase if the implement runs deeper than eight inches, and decrease if it runs shallower. Why not use that draft fact to control the depth of work automatically? The draft forces are
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