Lots of good advice here. Only couple of things I would add:
I agree that stumps are tough! I use my Ford 755 backhoe to dig them out and if I grab a 6" stump without loosening around the edges, it will pick the front end off the ground and it weights 18000 lbs! So, yeah, stumps can be hard on equipment. Whatever you do, work slow and methodical. Digging around the stump with your bucket to break the roots that branch out underground will help immensely on the bigger ones. If you're doing a lot of them, you'll have a field that looks like its been shelled, i.e. full of craters. Remember that each one will leave a decent size hole that will have to be filled. I use fill that I saved from cutting in a driveway to fill in the holes, then back blade with the loader bucket to level it out. If I just had a loader bucket to do it with, I'd probably use the techniques suggested by others: leave as high as possible and push the stump/tree over and cut the upper part off on the ground.
Been using a Poulan Pro with an 16" bar. It's ok, but I'm going to get a Stihl MS361 real soon, as I'm doing way more cutting that the Poulan was designed for. I sharpen by hand every time I fill the tank. Just a couple of strokes will keep the chain sharp. BUT, make sure you have a good sharp hand file. Try sharpening with an old dull file, then take a new one out of the box and you can sure tell the difference. Haven't tried the motorized DIY sharpeners. Might ask for one for Christmas.
Digging out stumps gives an appreciation for Mother Nature when you see whole trees knocked over in storms, tornadoes, hurricanes.
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Today's Featured Article - The Ferguson System Principal An implement cutting through the soil at a certain depth say eight inches requires a certain force or draft to pull it. Obviously that draft will increase if the implement runs deeper than eight inches, and decrease if it runs shallower. Why not use that draft fact to control the depth of work automatically? The draft forces are
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