That is sure a good looking disc compared to the older stuff we run. But maybe because we run older stuff often bought at auction we have gained some more experience in diagnosis and repair. I would wish that not to be true!
I am going to assume that the black disc frame bolts tight to the upper green frame as they seem to line up. Interesting that the green piece of similar thickness angle has not failed. But notice that the front end of the green angle has a gusset diagonal to give it more strength. If you have any further failure then add gussets to the ends of your replacement angle.
Now as to what might be causing the problem, assuming that we can eliminate operator error. Front gangs usually take a much tougher beating from big rocks, and so this may be part of the problem. But I do some careful measuring to determine that the hinge pin in the black frame is parallel with the line of the upper green rectangular tube that is pulled by the hydraulic cylinders. This disc may have been assembled incorrectly when new. Or maybe someone has bumped the front corner on a tree stump at the edge of the field, forcing the right front gang out of alignment. I see that the gangs are cushioned with the big horseshoe shaped springs, and that may have saved the gang bolt from breakage if hit. Measure carefully on both sides of the disc, and I'd bet that this front gang is slightly back of where it should be at its outer end. You are going to have be creative in measuring to either prove it is bent or prove that it isn't. I doubt that you can do the measurements working alone. I would also guess that the hinge pin on the rear gang must be parallel to the pin on the front gang.
To make a vertical weld with 6011, I find it easier to weld from bottom and travel up, meanwhile holding the stick at about 45 degree upward angle. The 6011 aims the heat quite effectively in the direction the rod is pointed. Keep your arc length short, less chance of the puddle running away in a big glob. If you are having too much trouble with the puddle running down, then just strike the arc and make a single left to right pass and let it cool for a few seconds. Chip off the slag and make another pass preferrably right to left. Weld, stop, chip, as often as you need to get the bead length you want.
You are a good man to help out the "old timer" fellow. I have done the same thing many times and have much respect for others who are willing and capable of helping.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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