I used 7018 all around, though I need to get some other electrodes like 6011, 6013, I'd also like to take a vo-tech class on welding to refine my skills further, the vertical welds were a bit of a challenge on this, I did lay more than enough material in there to make a solid connection, ground same and saw no porosity, though I had some sticking problems, when I went back to 1/8" electrode, I could run a continous bead, so although it don't look factory, it don't look cobbed either, she's on there, I could always run final passes to make it look better, but once I know it will hold, which it has so far. When the gang was flipped up, it was sloped so not totally vertical, and I could see that I was gaining on doing that position much better than in the past. that slope helped, but the gang of discs in my way, really made it a challenge to get a stick in there at the right angle, maintain arc distance, not stick and not stop short etc. If I took that gang off and flipped er upside down, the profile would look professional if I could weld on the flat, but at least it has held, sure is enough weld on it, especially up top, which was never the issue in the first place, and if it failed, could still be burned off again and re-done, I just don't want to mess up that tube it's welded too, or embrittle same by welding and cutting on it too many times. That technique you mention, left to right, short pass, let cool, I've seen welds done like that, my truck frame was extended, and the profile looks like it was done that way, a much looser stack of dimes, but still solid, just takes more time, will remember that, I really need to practice the vertical position more, though on the old piece of angle I welded the cracks and it looked perfect, turned the heat up and it fused right in but good, much flatter profile, with excellent penetration and strength, it held, I saved the piece. So many variables that can effect your welds.
There are large enough rocks in these fields and what you mention about assembly I too have considered, though this one has been in service 2 years, think this year is the first he's had trouble. Might have been a one time event, and that piece of angle was just fatigued out. He bought a large JD rotary cutter, and they put the blades on backwards when assembled, so I can see these things happening. I think this might have been adjusted wrong as I helped him adjust the front to back level and something was off, might just have been that front gang was just down too far, large rocks, lifted too late after a turn 1x too many etc. I checked in on it in the field and being coated with cold galv. spray which I use on all repairs til they can be painted or what have you, I saw no signs of stress. The bolts were also loose since the last repair, I tightened em good this time before it went to the field, could have been that play in the connection working on it too. I also gave it a good once over, did not see any signs of stress, like fractured paint, or new rust elsewhere on the disc. Time will tell, though you do have to check, adjust and tighten things on something like this. She also takes quite a bit of grease, which I did also, to make sure it was ready.
In the last few years he's gotten some new equipment, but he's no different than most, always bought at auctions, he sold some land in the past, and at his age, probably figured what the heck, late model JD 7420, this 637 disc, new JD round baler, discbine, rotary cutter, but that 7420 tractor is sweet, he has not bought a new one in a long while, funny, the steel supplier, one of the partners used/borrowed it in his wedding, another friend shipped it to the place, no charge for the steel I needed! He's real careful when it comes to money, and I don't blame him and you have to admire someone in this racket who can make things work all these years, it's been a pleasure working with him this spring, he's well ahead this year. He bought a grain drill at auction this spring, did 65 acres of oats with it and boy everyone of those fields I cultipacked sure looks good, the thing worked nice, though we had to freshen it up, lube and check er out, for what he paid, the auctions are the way to go, he's worked on enough old stuff in his day I am sure, builds character like you said with diagnosis and repair.
He's really appreciated the extra help this year, his kids sure are busy, but 2 of them still jump in when they can, but just having an extra hand like I've been, full time for a few weeks, really makes a difference, it's low pay, but satisfying to be able to help keep things rolling, and know it's appreciated, and at his age, doing what he does is not easy and sometimes difficult to do by yourself, I know he enjoys the work, though sometimes he breaks even, but with a little help, things sure seem to go much better. The last week or so was on me, he's got some standing timber to come down to expand a field, so that works out ok for some compensation, no out of pocket costs for these repairs helps the bottom line on his end. Some people are terrible for what they charge, he had a guy do $3000 worth of work to his '90 checvy 3/4 ton, trans. etc. darned linkage was off, would not stay in park, he had the guy come back, he fixed it, and charged him an extra $10, just had to get something, some people are just rude like that.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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