Well I"m a siding installer, I guess I"ll put my 2 cents in. The product I like the best is vinyl siding with insulation glued on the back of it. The brands I use are PolarWall and CraneBoard. They look and feel more solid than cheaper siding and lay flatter so you don"t see as many of the imperfections in the wall. If you nail it and lap it correctly, so it can expand and contract with the weather, it"ll last 30 years or more and look like the day it was installed. (other than some fading). There"s no chance of denting or rusting, and replacing panels is easy. Hardi board is popular on higher end houses but I dont know why. You"ll still have laps, you still have to paint it at least once. It does look more like wood, and you can change your color down the line if you want to, but it cost more to install. The jobs I"ve done of it, if you left an unpainted peice on the ground over night it seemed to absorb the moisture. That got me weary of it. Of course, like your post said, I dont have experience with steel siding so I can"t really comment on that. I would be concerned about rust, seems like everything I have made of steel eventually finds a way to rust no matter how it was painted. No matter what you pick, find out what crew will do your job and see some of their work on other houses. Like another post said, the installer makes all the difference.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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