It was getting long winded as I was writing so I gave a shorter answer hoping to see more replys,but I would either get some thick plate and weld it to the plate or a big vise that would hold it together,or there could be lots of ways that work,but it would have to be fitted together so good you couldnt tell it was broke.I would mark the crack some way first before grinding and I would use a carbide burr on a diegrinder to v it.Then I would tack it everywhere I though it needed to be tacked and weld it keeping it flat as much as possible.Other rods will work but I would use 7018 or ask a welding supply or welder what they have that has a little flex to it for cast steel.I also would ask their opinion on welding it with MIG.I remember there was Super rod and other kinds that weld easier than 7018.I would weld until I was done,get a file or hacksaw blade or something rigged up to clean all of the rust out of the splines,oil it up and put it back on.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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