The 48" should get you below the frost line, a couple more inches won't hurt.
The 24" hole gives you more wiggle room to square things up and gives more support to the posts by a bigger foot print. I'd go bigger than 12" as your posts should be 6x6 which gives you only 3" of play on each side.
I'm in Northern Ohio, on a building your size, we're required to have to have 20" wide holes with a minimum of 8" of poured concrete. No precast or dry sackrete. I'd pour the concrete and let it set a day or 2. I'd be concerned with dry mix not setting uniformly and thoroughly causing post to settle later on. You will get all kinds of advice on dumping it in dry and building. The problems show up later and are costly to fix. With the end of your posts below frost line and the weight of the building, heaving should not be a concern. Getting your post set, your skirt boards, girts, and top beams in place will minimze any twisting of the posts. Once you're sided and under cover, the posts will stay dry and should warp or twist. We backfill with #411 limestone, dampened and tamped. The limestone will set hard and shed water. My 2 cents worth.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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