Unless I'm missing something, that is exactly what I already stated in slightly different words . .
"amp meter needs show how much charge current is actually charging the battery after all other demands are met"
As to wire size, 10 gauge wire is fine as long as it is protected. If somebody sticks on an alternator that can make 100 amps, and they've got 10 feet of 10 gauge wire hooked to it with no breaker protection, it can be a fire-hazard. Much depends on the quality of the wire insulation, duration of high amps, and if open air or covered. Since tractors are often greasy and wires old, it's very easy to create a fire-hazard when adding an alternator.
It's also why many auto makers, when using amp-gauges, used shunt-wired units and NOT direct-read units. This cut back on the need for large wires in long runs.
I suspect some people don't realize the fire hazard potential and use 10 gauge wire since it's the largest many auto stores stock in small rolls. I doubt you'll ever find 10 gauge wire hooked up OEM on a car or truck alternator unless it's a tiny one. 4 to 8 gauge is more like it.
A Delco 10 SI or 12 SI can be capable of 100 amps.
Wire needs for a 10 foot "round trip" run. First number is wire ampacity and second number min. size with a 4% voltage drop.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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