Re: Re: Snapped Stud on Block

Posted by Andy Welding is Great Martin on January 19, 2003 at 06:17:55 from (12.74.161.39):

In Reply to: Re: Snapped Stud on Block posted by The Red Barron on January 18, 2003 at 21:05:37:

Trust me, from lots of years of experience, and welding nuts on lots of broken bolts and studs, it is the easy method.

There is no way you will warp the block heating one stud temporarily. And that is what you are doing when you weld a nut on. You heat the end of the stud, it grows and breaks the rust bond.

You don't need to cool it quickly, or get on it with a wrench while it is still hot. Let everything cool down and the stud will usually come right out.

This works well on the bolts in thermostat housings which are tapped through to the water side.

Had an M transmission plate off recently with four bolts broken off flush. Three came out by hand after welding on a nut, the forth took three nuts to come out. Someone had put in a bad bolt and it galled on the way in, years ago.

I gave up on easy-outs because I had about a 20% chance of damaging threads or breaking the easy outs (and square ones get my vote for being better) and have NEVER had a failure with welding on nuts. Even when the break is 1/8" below the surface. 6010 or 6011 weld rod just won't stick to the little bit of cast iron that is exposed.

You do need to know how to weld. You have to get the rod to the stud and weld your way out.

I've even used this method on large screws with bad slotted heads, like on an IH wire baler twister plate.

My machine shop buddy swears by left-hand drills. Drilling also heats the metal and when the drill catches the stud comes on out. But not on heavily corroded parts. When you break a stud off installing it, get a left-hand drill.

Follow Ups:

• Re: Re: Re: Snapped Stud on Block joe 12:07:09 01/19/03 (0)
• Re: Re: Re: Snapped Stud on Block STEVEN H 11:19:38 01/19/03 (0)

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