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Reverse Engineering, 424 Hydraulics
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Posted by BlueLite on December 30, 2003 at 09:39:07 from (206.172.124.131):
I've given up on trying to get my hydraulic repaired for it's intended purpose. The guy who repaired it is giving me "no time to work on it" routine. I've done some studying of the manual. It seems 90% of the technology in the cylinder block of components is dedicated to moving the arms to a select position in relation to the shift quadrant and holding it there (draft). After my conversion, what I will have remaining is the standard up/down by spool alone, similar to the old external proprietary MH cylinder. I intend to purchase an external in line relief valve, either in the spool or in-line because I don't want to go in and fool around with any F*&*&^%-up relief valve in the lift housing again. Besides I would have to block off more orifices to make use of it. All the trinkets and linkage I can say goodbye too and I'll junk. The disadvatage is resale value as anyone looking for position control won't have it, neither will they have draft control. But most around here are just happy to have it lift and working. Might even be a plus, as less probability for mech failure. Down will be under dead weight. Expected problems will be tweaking for no cavitation, but with a 7GPM pump I don't expect much of a problem. Also is thread tapping without getting the filings in the works. Brazing and welding is out for fear of cylinder distortion and there isn't much room for error. I was thinking of using an external in line filter for the suction side. Why? Funny that you should ask, the price is .... get this... 300$ for the filter and tube assembly from CASE.!!!! It's filtering OK now but if ever I need one, I'll convert. I'll need a single 3 way single spool to lock in up position, neutral and down. Down is simply a return to the reservoir by unseating the ball for position 2. All this set to 2400 lbs on the relief valve. Input line to the cylinder will be accessed thru the accessory outlet port screw, but I'm not restricted to that. Hopefully I can aways drill and tap a new orifice. I'll use the quarant shaft housing on the right side of the driver seat to mount the spool. The double spool aux valve will stay where it is on the rh fender. The only reason all this is possible is because it appears it is possible to isolate the piston by blocking off the position control orifice, which leads further into the regulator. I can do that I think by taping in a NF bolt in the PC housing. I may have to ground down the cylinder head at that spot to accept the head of the bolt. Anyway I'll know more if I can do it when I take the assembly off myself. Starting soon, will keep you posted and maybe post some blueprints if it works.
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