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Re: Man oh man.......engine block cracks........:-
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Posted by Patrick Martin on October 15, 2006 at 00:26:48 from (64.154.26.250):
In Reply to: Re: Man oh man.......engine block cracks........:- posted by Patrick Martin on October 14, 2006 at 21:19:14:
Jeez???? I didn"t think of stress cracks.
But what could have stressed the block that much? I don"t know of too many attachments that would torque the block alone. The rest of the lil booger is sound, even the lugs on the inside of the rear wheels for the attachments. Those rods for cast iron work pretty well but I just use a good steel rod. The trick is to preheat the cut or crack first before zapping it up. You want to draw the tip of your torch down to a very small fine cutting tip. Use this about an inch or so in front of your rod. A good dull to medium red will ensure penetration. Also take an angle grinder and cut down into the crack to make a sort of V trench it"s length. You will fill this trench and this will allow you to have a good solid weld that you can dress down to match the block surface. I do this on engine parts that are visible and cannot show welds for show. Some folks like MIG"s for this, I prefer a stick. On parts like a cast iron Model T head that has a pebbly casting surface you can duplicate the texture by using a coarse sand and abrasive blasting the spot. I use this on some of the post 86 dealer sample automatic weapons that I reweld as well and mimic the surface textures. I did strip the block for this but that was only because I was cleaning it and going to repaint it as well. I bought this tractor for utility and not for show but I like my machines clean. As far as shavings I don"t penetrate through the block when champfering the cracks. I get about 2/3rds deep and that"s it. Even if you somehow penetrate through the water jacket it"s not a big deal as long as you"ve closed it up. Just let it cool and flush whatever loose stuff you can out. It"s just the water jacket and nothing mechanical anyway but you for sure don"t want stuff getting in your pump though.
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