the tractor vet said: (quoted from post at 20:37:51 10/24/07) First off are you sure that it is and intake ?? bet it is and exhaust valve that went to lunch from improper oil . Next before ya order a engine kit best look at the deck of the block near each hole for letters stamped in the deck the letters ya find will tell ya what bore class ya have like A-B will take over the counter sleeves and fit ok IF ya find C-or D then ya need oversize sleeves and ya don't find them over the counter . If i was doing this engine there is noway i would do and inchassie . That engine would come all the way down and EVERYTHING would be checked line bore block deck counter bores cam lifters rods then on the head it would get new guides checked for warpage and the springs would all be tested . Then the sleeves would be pressed in and honed after they were in . also i would make sure that before the sleeves went in that the counter bores were all depth checked and the lips on the slleves checked to make sure that they have the correct stand out hight as ones they are in it is TO LATE . Then each piston would be fitted to each hole as they are not perfect and vary in size . And ya want .004 skirt to wall clearance on each hole . Now if ya don't know how to do this then save yourself time and money and let someone that realy knows what he is doing do the job for ya as far as doing the bottom end Then you can put the block back in the tractor and put the head on . Now weather ya know this or not ya have to run low ash oil in that engine and YOU MUST RUN 93 octain gas no if ans or buts about this. Also ya may want to have the rocker arms reground as they all have a wear pattern where they meet the valve stem .
Sounds to me like it is just time for a new tractor. Just joking, but really if you are just starting in on this, there is no way I would recommend for you to do a complete overhaul yourself. An Inframe overhaul is better than what you have now, and it will probably be fine for you. If you try to do a complete overhaul of the engine like TRAKTER Vet says, then you are going to have to have a lot more tools than the average starting mechanic has. And inframe is much easier because you don't have to worry about splitting the tractor, removing the engine from the frame and having some way to move all of that.
You can take all the rod caps loose by rotating the crank until you can get to each one of them and remove them as you go from the top of the block. If you can get a sleeve puller or borrow one then you can pull those from the top a lot easier too. You can probably take the head to a machine shop and get new valves seated and sealed for a reasonable price.
The new sleeves will go in better if you leave them in the freezer overnight first. and the easiest was to turn the engine is by being very careful and either using a prybar on the ring ( after starter is removed) or using the starter to turn it, BUT I would recommend the prybar. It is just more controlled and a lot safer.
You seem like you are just wanting to learn some things on your own and get some experience starting out on this kind of thing. OR YOU COULD take about $$2000 +++ to an engine rebuilder and have everything done that tractor vet said.
Just get a repair manual ( A GOOD ONE ) and read into everything a little before tearing into it right away. Some people jump the gun on some things and break more than they fix if they go in blindly.
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