Posted by 1fortyfanatic on February 09, 2008 at 19:42:53 from (71.229.209.88):
Hi all,
Update on my 140 losing power. Yep, new points, condenser and coil helped alot, but didn't quite get it done. So, after 5 hours of chisel, torch, hammer, pipe wrench, air hammer, yanking, sawzall (3 blades and a 1/8th inch gouge), soaking and all trying to get the muffler to release from the exhaust up pipe, I had an epiphany. Take the exhaust manifold off and remove the hood and muffler together.
Okay, so I can finally get at the engine. There has been an oil leak from somewhere up high and forward for a looonnnggg time, and there appears to be about 25 years oil grease dirt build up all up and around the front. I spent several hours just getting the 2 to 3 inches of crud build up off of the areas I wanted to work. The crank flywheel, the belt, even the fan were all riding on this crud and had about zero clearance. I'm surprised the engine would even turn over under battery power.
So the valve cover finally comes off, and there appear to be two bent push rods. (standing on the right side of the tractor in the offset) The 2nd rod on #4, and the 1st rod on #1 are both canted inward / bent, and riding on the head casting. Oh joy. In addition, I find out where the leak has been. Whoever put the valve cover on 25 years ago, managed to let the right front corner of the gasket completely miss the corner of the cover. Of course it has shrunk and it mica brittle, so I can't salvage that. And to add to the days festivities, I managed to poke a tiny hole in one of the radiator tubes, so i drained it and had to take off the radiator. I think I can patch the hole if I snip away a little bit of the fins surrounding, but I have no idea what kind of solder is proper!! Tin? Lead Acid core?? Anybody know??
Anyway, I'm going to put in two new push rods, adjust them and all, 2 new gaskets for the valve cover and the exhaust manifold, and one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to help with the potentially sticky valves. Patch the radiator (hopefully) and my lost power issue should be history. By the way, 62 psi on #1, about 67 on #'s 2 and 3, and 60 on #4 cylinders. What is the right compression for the 140 four banger gas model?? Thanks to all that have helped and kept me going on this. Looks like I get to paint the engine a little sooner than I expected.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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