Posted by P and R Pete on April 13, 2008 at 12:50:44 from (74.212.12.93):
I was cranking the last nut on the last stud in it"s sequence, when it felt like it let go. Thought I broke the stud, but when I took them all back out, the stud, and threads in the block, were OK. I assume the stud wasn"t bottomed out, and between 70 and 80, it started to move again.
So now I"m wondering- should the studs get loctite-d first with the non-permanent stuff? Some of those studs didn"t go in easily, nor the nuts on the studs. I don"t want false torque readings. Should I run all the threads and nuts through taps and dies? I"ll have to farm that job out, but maybe here"s the step to be thorough.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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