David - The Stage 1 SM hydraulic reservoir his held to the underside of the belly by 4 capscrews. It's driven by a slotted flex coupling from an extension of the transmission countershaft - ie. from the REAR of the reservoir.
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Removal the pump/reservoir is not difficult. But it is HEAVY and kinda awkward to handle (it's top heavy)
First remove the dust cover in front of the reservoir, disconnect (unscrew) the 3 hydraulic outlets and remove the control lever. Then put a transmission jack beneath the resevoir to hold it up, remove the 4 cap screws holding the reservoir in place, and carefully let the jack down to lower the reservoir. Be careful - it will want to tip over and fall off the jack as soon as it is free of the tractor belly!
Alternatively the reservoir can be lowered by removing 2 diagonally opposite capscrews and replacing them with 2 lengths of 3/8" threaded rods and nuts. Run the nuts snug to the underside of the reservoir mounting flange, remove the remaining 2 capscrews, then alternately turn the nuts down on the threaded rods to lower the reservoir.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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