David - The Stage 1 SM hydraulic reservoir his held to the underside of the belly by 4 capscrews. It's driven by a slotted flex coupling from an extension of the transmission countershaft - ie. from the REAR of the reservoir.
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Removal the pump/reservoir is not difficult. But it is HEAVY and kinda awkward to handle (it's top heavy)
First remove the dust cover in front of the reservoir, disconnect (unscrew) the 3 hydraulic outlets and remove the control lever. Then put a transmission jack beneath the resevoir to hold it up, remove the 4 cap screws holding the reservoir in place, and carefully let the jack down to lower the reservoir. Be careful - it will want to tip over and fall off the jack as soon as it is free of the tractor belly!
Alternatively the reservoir can be lowered by removing 2 diagonally opposite capscrews and replacing them with 2 lengths of 3/8" threaded rods and nuts. Run the nuts snug to the underside of the reservoir mounting flange, remove the remaining 2 capscrews, then alternately turn the nuts down on the threaded rods to lower the reservoir.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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