Posted by ScottyHOMEy on January 09, 2009 at 07:27:17 from (71.241.207.55):
In Reply to: Re: Engine Hoist posted by EZ on January 09, 2009 at 06:46:13:
You're welcome.
The long left shaft is standard on the BN ( same length as the right side of the A, but 4" shorter on both sides than on the B). Your 130 is descended from the A, which had the left final drive bolted right up to the tranny/diff.
I was working alone, but it wasn't a bad job at all. As far as the bearings, they're not hard. I'd have to dig out the parts catalog (my memory is a little vague) but most of the bearings are ball bearings that may require a little help from a punch or drift on the backside, but will come right out. Clean up their seats and they'll go right back in. The only one that gave me any trouble (and the only bearing on the tractor I didn't replace), and I still don't have it resolved on my BN, is the bearing on the left side where the shaft passes into the tranny. It rides in the inside of a cage that is bolted to the tranny, with shims between the cage and the side of the tranny to adjust the mesh on the differential. The cage is bolted on with three bolts, and should slide out. The one on the right came out and went back in with no problem. The one on the left, there's something else going on, and it binds not long after starting to come out, and no amount of wobbling, prying, swearing or prayer has been able to get it off. I've applied as much leverage as I think I dare without breaking it but, as I said, there's something else going on there that I just haven't figured out yet. I have the bearing and seals on the shelf waiting for a light to come on. That said, you shouldn't need anything exotic to get your bearings out and back in yourself.
Seals -- same deal. Many of them can be driven out from the backside like the bearings. For those that can't, a simple seal puller (a flat handle with two hooks on the end of different lengths that would remind you of very narrow hammer claws) can be had from Sears or other places for ten or fifteen bucks. The only caution on new seals is that their shells aren't as deep as the originals, and most places you'll want to drive in two of them, one over the other. As far as installing/driving in the new seals, you can buy a kit of bearing race and seal drivers for $30 or so at AutoZone, NAPA .... They're basically aluminum discs, flat on one face, and a tapered, flat-top step on the other. The kit includes a handle that can be screwed onto the discs for driving purposes. For seals, the concept is to start the seal by hand, then drive it flush with the flat face of one of the discs that has a circumference larger than the hole the seal is going into. The stepped side of the discs are used to drive bearing races (like those in the front wheels), but can also be used to drive smaller seals, or for driving the first seal below flush in the places that you need to put a second one on top of the first.
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