Posted by Janicholson on July 05, 2010 at 12:51:19 from (199.17.6.76):
In Reply to: *Super -M- again* posted by gatorhide on July 05, 2010 at 11:28:03:
Well here goes; The start button is of one of two possible types. It either it has a mechanical switch mounted on the light bar, with heavy cables running to it from the battery, and to the starter, with a #10ga wire going to the electrical box from the battery connected post, or it could have the same heavy switch located down at the base of the steering support with a rod to push it. Or it has a starter relay on the starter with a small push button to energize the solenoid. (not stock, but common when modifications are done) If it has a Relay, it could be stuck, or the small push button could be shorted at its terminals. If it is a large full current switch with a big button, it is probablynot good from the factory. It should have a large enough spring to keep it from welding as old indicates (correctly) If it measures zero resistance, it is stuck and a new one (return for replacement) is in order. The distributor (when stock) is setup so that the rotor points to 1:30 (O'clock) when looking from the rear of the distributor just as #1 cylinder(counting from front of engine) gets to TDC. The distributor rotates clockwise, and the 4:30 position has #3 cylinder in it. 7:30 is 4, and 10:30 is #2 plug.
Take out all the plugs. With ignition off, Rotate the engine till air is pushed out of #1 plug hole. (a thumb in the hole works) Put a 7" piece of copper wire down the hole to "feel" the piston top. It should be close to the top. Move the engine (with the fan blade) till the piston is at the top (It could go either way a little). The timing pointer should now be very close to the mark on the front pulley. Set it so it is on the mark, and take the wire out. the rotor should be pointing to 1:30. if it is not, pull the distributor out and make it so. leave the distributor a little loose at the pinch bolts to allow it to turn some as you set the timing. With the ignition off, put an ohm meter on the distributor side terminal and ground the other lead. Turn the distributor a little bit CW the resistence should be zero (or very near). Now rotate the distributor until the resistance goes to infinite (open). Just at that point, the points just break open. That is the moment of ignition, so tighten it down right at the point of the change from no resistence to high resistence. Put the plug wires in as described above, and install the plugs, and it will run! Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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