Since you need to remove parts from the distributor cap end before the shaft will come out I suggest starting there. After rotor and plastic dust cover is removed, remove the point arm and stud with insulater that passes through the distributor housing. Remove 2 screws that go in the cap clips and another screw half way between them. If you left the condenser or point half in the steel plate, use them to help pull the steel plate from housing. Under the plate will be a weight gaurd. If someone put a screw to long in the condenser mount you may find the gaurd mangled or the screw was hitting the guard. Thats one thing that could be your problem. 2 screws removes the gaurd from the distributor shaft, then you can see the advance weights and springs to make sure things are okay there. If the shaft still doesn't turn free there's only a porus bushing in the housing that the shaft passes through, Soaking or penetrating fluid may free it up, then put some oil in to soak then grease. If you want to remove the shaft, originals are a solid pin through gear staked or swelled on each end. Sometimes there's play between gear and shaft in the holes, so most times I just make a pin to fit. Have used roll pins a few times doubled up, one inside another but always afraid they may loosen sometime. There's also a oring seal for the shaft in the gear end of housing that would be replaced if you remove shaft from housing.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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