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Stuck engine on I-6 getting the best of me, any Idea's?
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Posted by Tom Harrower on September 06, 2000 at 20:54:39 from (216.126.183.54):
I have been patiently trying to get the engine on my I-6 unstuck for about a year now. While the engine was still together, I pulled the plugs, and filled the cylinders with marvel oil and let sit. I saw lots of posts on this, lifting one rear wheel and rocking back and forth in fifth gear seemed to be a good fix, so I tried that for some time with no results. After a few months, I pulled off the head, and the oil pan. The #3 cyl was the guilty one.Apparently when the tractor was parked for the last time,who knows how long ago, it ended up with the exhaust valve on # 3 open, and sat out in the weather and proceded to rust solid. With the head off, I have tried many different types of penetrants; marvel oil, WD40, brake fluid, PB blaster, ect,ect,ect. On the stuck cylinder the fluids just evaporated, or sat and filled with bugs, rocking the wheel was not freeing it up. Other than being stuck, the engine looks to have had very little use. You can read the IHC part numbers on the heads of the valves, and on the tops of the pistons. The crankcase is exceptionally clean, the insides of the pistons are barely discolered. I was hoping that patience would prevail, and the engine would unstick without having to beat the piston out of the hole. I am hoping to reuse as much of the engine as possible, and as nice as most of the parts looked, I thought that would happen. Today I put a large socket with a 3/4" breaker bar and a long pipe on the the crank nut, started to get into it, and the stuck cylinder/sleeve assy popped up out of the block. I turned the engine untill the sleeve reset itself in the block, then started to crank down on the bar again to try and break the piston loose, but instead, the flange on the top of the sleeve broke off, piston is still very stuck in broken sleeve.Now I'm stuck again! I suppose using that piston is out of the question, or is it? I am thinking that I will have to wait till engine is out to take out the crank and knock the rusted assembly out, but then I will still have to get it apart to use the rod. Any thoughts as to getting these parts separated? This is my first experience with this kind of an engine. The tractor will not be a working tractor, but rather a "hobby" tractor, when it runs again. I would like it to run smoothly and not smoke. Should I expect to replace all the major components in this engine that has sat stuck all these years to get it to run decently? Or will a sleeve, rings and bearings likely make it a decent runner? Appreciate any ideas......Tom
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