One pretty simple way to get the full voltage to the coil on start is to put a #12 wire from the starter side of the big starter switch (hot when the starter is turning) take this wire to the ballast resistor and put a 4 amp diode on the end so that the electricity can flow to the ignition, but not back to the starter. connect the other end of the diode to the coil side of the ballast resistor. That simple change is equal to the replacement of the starter switch system to add an isolation ignition bypass. If the diode is in backwards, it will melt the ballast resistor. I am not sure I like the idea of the battery voltage dropping that much in 15 seconds. It should stay above 12.5 volts until the starter is engaged. Check cranking voltage (carefully in neutral with a helper) it should be at 10.8 or better while cranking unless it is way cold. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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