Being a Chevy delership Tech, a transmission and drivability on top of that, I can say for certain, especially on that truck that the ABS and torque converter are completely isolated. The only thing that happens with the torque converter clutch that is brake related is it releases when the brake pedal is pressed. That is a direct input to the PCM, so if ABS were non functionable, makes no difference. It sounds like you have had the unwanted ABS activation. If so, it's most likely rust buildup under the sensor in the front wheels. The rust builds up under the sensor and pushes it away from the tone ring casuing signal loss. The ABS interprets this as a wheel locking and the ABS functions like you're trying to stop on ice. Simple to fix. Pull the wheel speed sensors, buff off the rust, paint the bare metal, put the sensors back. Lean codes are NOT caused by a missing catalytic converter. Vacuum leaks, air leaks between the mass air sensor and engine, dirty filters and injectors usually cause most lean codes. A weak fuel pump can do it too, although most people overlook the fuel filter. Water getting into the trans fluid, given enough time, will cause the friction material to delaminate from it's backing plates. A SRTA (service replacement trans assembly) carries a 3 year 100K warranty. Most of the problems I find on an 80 is the stator support and input housing shaft wear grooves and you may loose gears due to internal hydraulic leaks. The wearing of these parts is most often caused by towing/hauling heavy loads in overdrive. The converter hub bushing is another common problem. If they rebuilt it once already because coolant got in the trans and didn't put a new radiator in, it's their fault and they owe you a trans repair on their dime. My personal opinion is you might want to find a different Chevy dealer to work with. From your description, they might be lacking in diagnostic skill. Brian Jasper Co. Ia. ASE master Certified and L1 Advanced Engine Performance Specialist
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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