I went out and traced everything down. I can see that that regulator isn't stock on that combine,the paint is a different color where the original was. It was larger. I don't have any other wires hanging though. It's a 1972 Oliver 7300 gas with the 318 Chrysler V8 gas. There are only 2 wires going to the alternator. A red wire from the amp guage to the big lug on the alternator. That's the wire that would hook to a self exiter. The other wire plugs on to a spade on a little plate that's hooked to the back of the alternator with a screw. A wire loops from there to a stud on the alternator marked "fld" (field). Now,on that regulator,it's stamped right in the cover "fld" and "ign" The fld wire from the alternator is hooked to the fld post on the regulator. The wire from the "ign" side plugs on to a panel with 7 wires hooked to it under the instrument panel. Just an aside,my White 2-135 tractor had just 2 wires going to the Motorola alternator. I couldn't tell you how many are on the regulator,I don't even know where it is,BUT,I changed that one to a Delco self exiter a few months ago,and the guy at the starter shop said that second wire to the alternator was just an exiter wire and told me to just tape it up and leave it unhooked. I did,and that one works just fine.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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