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Farmall A timing adjustment
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Posted by John Martin on September 23, 2002 at 12:30:10 from (209.184.210.1):
This past weekend I finally got around to trying the static timing adjustment some of you advised me on. Got the #1 cylinder at top of compression stroke, perfectly lined up the timing mark on the flywheel with the one on the clutch housing dust cover, and made sure the rotor was pointing at #1 post on the distributor cap. Removed cap, rotor, and cover over the points so I could watch them as I moved the distributor (for reference, my distributor has been converted from the original magneto to a 12-volt system, with points and a condenser, and an external 12-volt coil). Previous posts suggested moving the distributor fully retarded and then advance until the points JUST start to open. I tried that...and...the rubbing block on the points never comes close to either cam. In other words, the points don't open any amount with full travel through the range of adjustment of the distributor. This explains (at least to me it does) why I couldn't set the timing with the timing light...something is messed up that has the timimg retarded significanly. My guess is that it is off by 30-40 degrees, which is the figure I had posted before. I have no explanation for this problem. I imagine excessive engine wear could cause the timing to be off by this much. Any other ideas? Timing gear jumped a tooth? Engine maintenance done in the past (before I got the tractor) and not put back correctly? I think I can compensate for the problem by changing rotor position relative to distributor rotation by moving the rotor gear (the driven gear under the cover under the rotor) in the direction that would advance the timing. I would move it a tooth at a time and then check the timing (with a timing light) to see how far I advanced it. By doing so, with all else staying the same, the rotor reaches each position on the cap earlier, or more advanced by the number of degrees of rotation each gear represents. The static method won't work for my anyway, so I have to try something. If this doesn't work, I have to go into the distributor or the engine, which would be much more complex than the 5-minute fix of moving the gear. Anyone ever try this before? Won't get a chance to do anything until next Saturday at the earliest, so keep the ideas coming, and as always any help is appreciated.
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