Thanks for the info. On the steering, pretty much every moving part in the whole mechanism is worn. When the hydraulic cylinder actuates, everything lifts up a couple inches. At some point I'll just have to take this all apart and see what's up. I could probably bore out and machine busings for the worn areas.
Alternatively, maybe a boneyard will sell me what I need at a decent price.
Good info on the parking lock. I read somewhere that when I go to fix this, I can upgrade it to the newer style (like on an 856), and that is more robust. Is this the case?
Regarding batteries- it always seemed that parallel is ok if both are equally good. I think that if one batt goes bad (shorted cell), then the good battery ends up supplying all the current. But these both look to be similar condition (I'll take a lok at the date codes).
I guess before doing this, I better see how fast it turns over on 12v and if it starts ok. On a 70 degree day, I need to run the starter about 5 seconds I'd say to get it going. I'm sure when its cold it will be tough. Of course, when I get the ether injector on, it should be fine.
So- do you think this is a "put together" tractor, or an odd model, or simply a normal, early example of an International 806?
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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