On the BN, your only timing mark is going to be the TDC mark on the flywheel. Unless the tractor's been split and cleaned up, it can be hard to find. It's a line that runs fore and aft on the flywheel, marked T-C 1-4. Turning the motor by hand (plugs out) you should be able to feel the compression on #1. Ge5 to that point and then run a stiff wire or a skinny screwdriver into the plug hole on #1 so that it rests on top of the piston. When the wire is at its lowest point the piston is at its highest, and you should, with some looking/cleaning . . . be able to find the timing mark on the flywheel by looking up through the hole on the bottom of your torque tube, which should line up with either a very nice steel indicator or a nub cast intoon the cover in front, depending on your tractor.
From there it's pretty much like the others have said. Orient your distributor so that the rotor is pointing generally to #1, which is usually in the 1-2 o'clock position, and bolt it in. From there rotate it in until you get a spark at just that point. After that it's pretty much fine tuning by ear.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning Up Your Tractor: Cooling and Fuel Systems, Hoses and Belts - by Curtis Von Fange. Our tractor is coming right along. The old oil and filter has been taken to the recycler and the air filter replacement has breathed new life into our motor. Let's take a closer look, now, at the cooling system since it has to work so hard in the summer heat. Cooling systems can be real cantankerous in their old age. Radiator cores clog up with rust, lime or other mineral deposits and the fins clog up with weed seeds and debris. The metal headers slowly corrode away from years of use and
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