With the original 6 volt generator, the light switch was a combination light switch/generator charge control.
The 4 positions are: L - Low charge, lights off H - High charge, lights off D - High charge, front lights on dim, rear light on bright H - High charge, all lights on bright.
With a 12 volt conversion, the switch L and H positions serve no purpose - they become simply two alternate "off" positions for the lights.
If memory serves, power supply to the light switch goes to the terminal #1 (bottom of the fuse holder). Rear light should be wired to terminal #2; the front lights to terminal #3.
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Pegging the ammeter is not a problem. You can replace it with a 60-0-60 ammeter if you wish, but it's really not necessary. (The original 20-0-20 ammeter on my Super M has been "abused" like this for 30+ years - it continues to work fine.)
Incidentally if your alternator is operating correctly and the battery is good, the charge rate should taper to 2 - 3 amps a few minutes after the engine was started. However if the ammeter continually remains pegged it means the battery is being overcharged. Best look into it before the battery gets boiled dry!
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