Here is a quick run down of what I've done. 1. Replaced plugs and doubled check gap. The old plugs were black and sooty. Good spark to plugs. .025. 2. Rebuilt and cleaned carb. Extra careful on the replacement of adjusting screws. Put in a new choke plate and choke seems to be working fine. 3. Removed fuel supply hose and cleaned with air hose. 4. Checked coil. Coil is fine. 5. Replaced points and condensor. Doubled checked point gap. .020 6. Checked plug wires. Seem to be in good shape - one boot was split. 7. Put propane bullet heater on carb side of engine with a tarp over the other side to warm things up.
All that and she'll try to start, but won't fire. It's almost like the on-off switch is off. Ran like a top until it got really cols about 3 weeks ago. Now won't fire. Any guidance would be welcome.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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