First of all, I certainly CAN tell when a fastener is turning too hard and liable to break.
If you can't, then they that's your particular short-coming and does not apply to everybody that turns a wrench. Some people DO have more skills then others.
Second, heat certainly CAN be applied carefully without harming the heat-treating of a stud or nut. If you don't know how, again that is your particular problem. No personal slight intended here, but I regard what you stated to be pure nonsense. I'm not talking about heating cherry or orange red, nor am I discussing "quenching."
If a fastener feels like it's going to break, sometimes just a little heat is all it needs. Then once off, a clean-up with a tap an die puts all back in pretty good order. Heat DOES force a nut to expand and can do so with no effect on its integrity. You just need to get the nut hot before the stud.
I've been doing it on cars, small trucks, heavy trucks, tractors, and other heavy equipment for 40 years and can't say I ever experienced a failed piece of hardware due to using moderate heat on it.
Often something breaks with an impact because it's turning too fast or to hard, or in the wrong direction.
One example with is %100 true. Next to our John Deere dealership a new Goodyear tire store opened up. I had a Toyota pickup at the time. This place had a reputation of breaking studs of cars and trucks and would never stand behind their screw ups. They had just broken studs on my boss's wife's car. So, in front of my boss, I jacked up my Toyota, and removed all four wheels and all lug nuts by hand - no problem. Why? Just to prove none were rusted stuck. I then went to the tire store and left it there to get four new tires. They called me up a few hours later and told me I had three broken studs, and I would need to pay them an extra $100 to fix. To make a long story short, I almost brought a law-suit against them - since I had witnesses that they lying. In the end, they gave me the new tires for free, also fixed the broken studs, but . . . told me never to come back to their business. They're out of business now. Used to be Ruas Tire Service in Oneonta, Otsego County, New York.
Note that in New York, a mandated motor vehicle inspection requires removal of wheels to inspect brakes. With my 1969 Dodge Power Wagon, twice my studs have been broken off at inpection stations with air wrenches in the hand of incompetent jerks. Why? My Dodge has left-hand nuts and studs on two wheels. They are are marked with an "L", and also, both times, I reminded the shops about the left-hand hardware. They broke it anyway, turning it the wrong way.
No reputable shop should be using a air gun without some sort of torque control and should never be using air guns to tighten on disk brake setups. Countly rotors have been ruined by air guns.
By the way, this IS an antique tractor forum. I suppose when working on old tractors, you never use heat to remove any hardware unless all is replaced with new? Boy, I'm glad you're not working on any of my tractors!
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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